At Udaipur

You can’t do justice to Udaipur in a day...more so if you are as unprepared as we were! We didn’t know what to expect. To say that we were overwhelmed is an understatement. Udaipur is one of the most beautiful cities- a roll of the hills all around....beautiful lakes and dotted with some of the most breathtaking palaces. The panoramic view of the entire city from the Karnika Temple leaves you speechless. There’s the City Palace shaped like a colossal ship on one side, the Lake Palace...white as a pearl floating right in the middle of the shimmering Pichola Lake and innumerable spires and domes which jump out of the generous green blanket that covers the city. In the distance is the Fateh Sagar Lake...faintly visible and blending into the grey of the Aravalli ranges.

Udaipur is scenic all right... It is also wrapped in so much of history that makes the experience so rich. Udaipur was built by Raja Udaisingh, the Mevaad King. Chittor, the original capital of the Mevaad kings wasn’t safe anymore. Udaipur was built as a sort of safe haven. Raja Udaisingh was the son of the legendary Sangram Singh (Rana Sanga) who fought against Babur with one eye, one arm and one leg and died in battle. Udaisingh’s son was Maha Rana Pratap who took on the might of Akbar and never surrendered to him throughout his life. It is interesting to note another point connected to Udaisingh. Mirabai, saint, poet and Lord Krishna’s devotee was Udaisingh’s niece!

It was this Udaisingh who built the City Palace at Udaipur. Kings after Udaisingh, including Maha Rana Pratap added elements to the palace...to make it the stunning monument that it is today.

We’ve now got used to the layout of these palaces- there’s a king’s section, a queens’ section (zenana), open courtyards...and opulence aplenty. There are horse stables, arenas for elephant fights, palace doors with spikes to keep marauding elephants away, colorful stained glass windows from Iran, Belgium mirrors, mosaics with peacocks...regal and majestic....and the shrine for the sun which all the kings of the dynasty worshipped. They were Suryavanshis. There are several gates called “pols”- ganesh pol, shiv pol, etc.

Just outside the palace is the “Jagadish” temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It was constructed after Rana Pratap’s time. The sculptures on the temple facade are beautiful and detailed.

One of the main attractions at the Udaipur city palace are the original artifacts surrounding the battle of Haldighati. The battle of Haldighati is part of folklore. Maha Rana Pratap took on the might of Akbar’s army led by Raja Mansingh I. 18000 soldiers died. Rana Pratap’s favorite horse “Chetak” lost its life but saved the Rana. Rana’s sword, armor, head-gear and spear are displayed. A thrill runs through us and we get goose-bumps to think that Rana Pratap donned this head-gear, wielded this sword...when he went out to fight on that fateful day!

A painting exemplifies Rana Pratap’s valor. In one stroke of the sword, he cut down Bahalol Khan (Ibrahim Lodi’s grandson who had joined the mughals) as well as the horse Bahalol Khan sat on. All...in one single stroke! The guide waxes eloquent. We have rajas, maharajas and finally maharanas. In the list of kings and emperors, a maharana reigns supreme because in addition to being a king, he was fighter!

In a couple of hours, we complete the entire tour. The details will be lost in a few months...but the images will endure. From Kumbhalgarh to Udaipur, we’ve followed the story of the Ranas....such valor, such heroism, such sacrifice.....! What would our lives be....if we didn’t have these fascinating stories to read, to re-read, to dream, to narrate, to recount....and pass on the same story to the next generation!?