Sunday 11 September 2011

Ganpati bappa morya!

Much as we would like to resist, the pandal is brought down step by step. The tarpaulin sheet rolled up in a bundle, the bamboos stacked up in a corner and the ropes thrown in a heap. The stage is dismantled, the decoration pulled apart- some of it salvaged for the next year. Soon, space- empty and void is all that remains; so removed from the excitement that enthralled one and all. A trail of heavy hearts is left behind as the 10-day Ganpati festival draws to a climactic close at Mumbai. The next day to school or to work is such a drag!

Every city has a culture uniquely its own. Chennai has the month long music festival and Kolkata its navratri puja. For Mumbai, it has to be Ganesh Chaturthi.

Ganpatis come in all shapes, sizes, hues and postures. Some of them acquired a star status of their own. The thespian, Raj Kapoor's Ganpati was awaited with bated breath on the day of "visarjan" (immersion). The float had a standard pattern- idols of Shiva and Parvati alongside Ganesha. Water spouted out of Shiva's matted locks and drenched the expectant crowd on both sides of the road. As per tradition, Raj Kapoor made it a point to advertise his upcoming film on the float - another reason for the huge turnout. There were equal number of people who came to gape at the posters of "Satyam Shivam Sundaram" and "Mera naam joker" as those who were more spiritually inclined! It was all perfectly fine.

Lalbaug cha Raja (King of Lalbaug) and the idol at Ganesh Galli were amongst the biggest and the best- 8 metres tall and majestically propped on a hooded serpent or a gigantic rat! There was another popular Ganpati,  referred in hushed tones as "Smuggler Ganpati"! Even Ganpati has to pay a price for the company he keeps!  After all, He is the  Lord of the good, the bad and even the ugly!
Ganesha stars in many avatars- with a bow and arrow as Lord Rama, perched on Garuda as though he is Vishnu and even armed with a mace like Hanuman. At Dharavi, He appeared as a "Madrasi Ganpati"- with vibhuti on foreheard and a simple curl of the trunk.
Non-madrasi Ganpatis sported a red chandra-bindu on the foreheard and had animated trunks- trunks which jutted out and had a couple of twists before resting on the chest. The North-South divide was as straightforward as that!

There was a new trend to portray Ganesha in modern costumes to sprinkle some humour- dressed up as a soldier and protecting the LOC at Kargil, handing over the World Cup to Kapil Dev and who knows, maybe, even as Anna this time! Ganpati as Anna will be a challenge, even for Ganpati- He will have to hold on to a modak, nice and enticing- without the luxury of putting it into his mouth! Ganesha may object to this makeover!
Some idols were truly divine; the eyes- almond shaped and doe-like, glistening and life-like, with a beatific smile. Rarely though, the idol appeared to have a scowl and seemed displeased with the general scheme of things!

The artisans let their imagination run riot and through their simple creation drove home the concept of "sarva-aatma-bhaava"- The One alone appears as the entire creation and as other Gods we hold dear.

Word of mouth took us to these locations, each dazzled with breathtaking props and amazing artistry. It was just like Disneyland, only the theme-park was as big as the city! There were goodies to be collected at each venue- modaks, sugar candies, an appetizing mix of rice flakes and jaggery; some so delicious that we would come back a second time to complete our meal! Bhajans and bollywood chartbusters vied with each other over loudspeakers, dandiya beats and disco lights formed the backdrop for austere vedic chanting!

It is just this juxtaposition of opposites, so indicative of Mumbai itself, that makes this festival endearing- a time for people to forget their work-a-day world and immerse themselves in a larger than life, community revelry. We need it now more than ever.

Today is the day of visarjan. I'm possibly a 1000 km from Mumbai. Standing outside my balcony, I can visualize the scene in Mumbai unfolding just now..... and let out a full throated cry.. "Ganpati Bappa Morya!"
The countdown has begun...355 sleeps to the next Ganpati!
Pudcha varshi lavkar yaa.....Agle baras tu jaldi aa!!


P.S.
If I have a regret, it's my inability to join the dance during visarjan! Rajesh, Harnish, Prasad, Naresh, elders from a different generation- the dimunitive Mr Palvia, Ashish's dad and even "motaa mummy" (who was really huge)... almost everyone could smear a "gulal tilak" on their forehead and break into a little jig so effortlessly! It didn't bother them in the least whether they were in step with the music or whether they followed any rhythm at all! They just let themselves loose, swung their hands and legs about as they pleased and had a great time!
In contrast, some of us were too shy and self conscious- we used to watch the proceedings with folded hands as mute spectators. At times, someone would pull us into the dance ring; we would protest and cringe and sheepishly shrink into the sidelines again! Dude.....can you be a better sport!? 

2 comments:

  1. This post is as environmentally polluting as the Ganesha milord! I prefer the small sweet smelling clay Pillayars...with an umbrella sticking from the clay at the back...red and black beads for the eyes...coin in the navel and a beautiful 'thirumaN';) Simple but elegant and majestic. I hope the trend of selling more of plain clay Pillayars continues in Chennai. It is high time people stop painting Ganeshas with toxic paints and ruin our water bodies!!!
    from,
    you-know-who:)

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  2. You-know-who!! We all know how "sweet smelling clay ganpatis" are.. at least in B'lore. So foul (or is it fowl) smelling (the clay we got home), that Ganesha himself would have walked far away from the idol!!
    I knew this post was coming when I wrote "8 meter tall ganpati"! In fact, I wanted to add a disclaimer! But your point is valid. But the focus is on having a "community event".

    A clay idol in the isolation of home does not serve the purpose. We like bigger and better ganpatis, loud music, noisy fanfare... arey bhye... kuch to naach-gaana, shor-sharaba ho! kyon!!?
    -shankar

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