Monday 31 December 2018

The temple at Tiruvottriyur

Truvottriyur is in North Chennai.....just past the Chennai Harbor. A quick drive on Chennai's famed Beach Road takes us to Tiruvottriyur.


The word "ottri" means to "exempt" or "to keep away". As per the sthala puranam at Tiruvottriyur, once upon a time, there was a deluge. The ocean threatened to engulf everything in its wake. Devotees prayed to Lord Shiva. Shiva acceded to their request and the ocean spared this piece of land. Hence, the name "ottriyur" or "Tiru-ottriyur".


We had a little talk with the temple priest. He had some interesting stories to narrate. It seems, after the deluge, this was the first temple which came up here. Hence, the name of Shiva as "aadi-puri-ishvara".  Adipureeshvara is not a conventional linga. The naaga, i.e. snake itself is the linga. It is kept covered in a golden armor through out the year except for three days when the armor is removed. Abhishekam is possible only on these three days.


Everything is in two-s at the temple- there are two shrines for Shiva: as Adipureeshvara and as Tiruvottreeshvara. There are two shrines for Devi: as Kali and as BalaTripuraSundari.
There are two sthala vrikshas: "atti" and "magizham".

Kali at the temple was in ugra rupa to the extent that even human-sacrifice was done in the past! Adi Shankara installed a circular (vattam in Tamil) srichakra and quelled Kali's anger and converted her into a benign deity.  Hence, the name of the deity as "vatta-parai-amman".
Tiruvottreeshvara is a conventional Shiva linga. Regular abhishekam is only for this linga.
We reached in time for the evening abhishekam for Devi. Devi as Bala-tripura-sundari is beauty personified!



There is connection between this temple and the one at Tiruvarur in Thanjavur district. The utsava murti is Tyagaraja, as Somaskanda (sa uma skanda)- Shiva with Uma and Skanda. It is a replica of the one at Tiruvarur.


There are 27 shiva lingas, one for each of the nakshatras, at this temple. This is one of the unique features of this temple.














Kaliya naayanaar:


One of the 63 naayanmaars, Kaliya naayanaar is primarily associated with Tiruvottriyur. He used to light lamps inside the temple. Once wealthy, he lost all his money. It came to a point when he had no money to buy oil to light the lamp. He decided to slit his throat and use his own blood to light the lamp. He is prevented by Lord Shiva. This stirring story is documented in the "periya puranam".
As per the temple priest, saints like Sundara murti naayanaar and Pattinathaar are also associated with Tiruvottriyur. However, Kaliya naayanaar was the only one who belonged to Tiruvottriyur and was specially blessed by Lord Shiva at this temple. Hence, the special recognition for him at this temple.


Sundara murti naayanaar:


One of Lord Shiva's leelas was played out at the Tiruvottriyur Temple.  Sundara murti naayanaar (Sundarar) visited Tiruvottriyur. Though he was already married to Paravaiyaar at Tiruvarur, he meets Sangiliyaar at Tiruvottriyur and decides to marry her. He wants to promise her that he will never leave Tiruvottriyur. He takes the Lord also on his side by asking him to step over to the Magizham Tree (sthala vriksha, inside the temple premises) so that he can make the promise in the absence of the Lord! Lord Shiva tricks Sundarar by appearing in Sangiliyaar's dream where he asks her to allow Sundarar to make the promise only under the Magizham Tree! Now, Sundarar is in a spot. He still makes the promise to Sangiliyaar and that too, in the Lord's presence, since Lord Shiva has now stepped over from the garbhagriha to the Magizham Tree. Sundarar gets married to Sangiliyaar and stays in Tiruvottriyur. Soon, he wants to return to Tiruvarur. He breaks his promise. As a result, he loses his sight on the way. But the Lord takes pity on him and later, restores his sight.
Once Sundarar reaches Tiruvarur, he has the unenviable task of placating Paravaiyaar. Again, Sundarar takes Lord Shiva into confidence and requests him to pacify Paravaiyaar. Shiva does the needful for his devotee! This story is documented in the Periya Puranam. The text praises Tiruvottriyur as a veritable "shiva loka".
The story shows the extent to which Lord Shiva bends to fulfil the pleas of a devotee. It shows one more connection between Tiruvarur and Tiruvottriyur. It also reveals the antiquity and sanctity of Tiruvottriyur, lest we brush it aside as yet another nondescript temple!


Tyagaraja and Tiruvottriyur:


Veenai Kuppaiyer was a resident of Tiruvottriyur and a famous musician. Some of the popular varnams, especially the one in Shankarabharanam (sami ninne), were composed by him. On his invitation, Tyagaraja visited Tiruvottriyur along with his disciples. He visited the temple and sang 5 pieces....all on Tripurasundari. Together, they are known as Tiruvottriyur Pancharatnam in the ragas Saveri, Shuddha-Saveri, Kalyani, Begada and Arabhi.
In particular, "daarini thelusukonti" in Shuddha Saveri and "sundari nee divya rupamu" in Kalyani are popular in concerts.
Veenai Kuppaiyer was a devotee of Lord Krishna. At his behest, Tyagaraja composed a number of kritis on Krishna including "elara Krishna" in Kambhoji and "venugaana" in Kedaragaula. These are often sung by musicians to this day.


Today, the view from the temple is limited. Urbanization has taken its toll.
In the not so distant past, the ocean could be seen from the temple. It would have been beautiful.
As the waves rise up and come down in cascades of white foam....it's as if they have a song on their lips. They are....as it were....singing in Kalyani....and extoling Tripurasundari….as "sundari nee...divyarupamu"!!! We join the chorus....on our way back.


Listen to these Titruvottriyur pieces sung by Maharajapuram Santhanam:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyQFsNewH4E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiUhYraOTn4


















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