Sunday 24 December 2023

Day-1: Mangalore Temples

December 24, 2023

(1) Sharavu Ganapati (with Sharabheshvara) temple


- Like the above pic, most temples follow Kerala style of temple architecture- wood construction instead of stone.
- Very beautiful and elegant
- 2 main shrines- Shiva as Sharabheshvara and Ganapati (called Sharavu Ganapati because of its association with Sharabheshvara)
- The shiva-linga is covered with the "mukha" of shiva. The mukha has a moustache embossed also! 
- Ganesha's shrine is decked so much, you have to concentrate to find the contours of the trunk and other features
- "Shara" is an arrow. There are stories about a certain king who killed a cow by mistake, using an arrow (shara) and atoned for it, by worshipping Shiva. Hence the "shara", "sharavu" etc.

(2) Kudtheri Mahamaya temple




- Though the outer gopuram in the above pic may not be too appealing, like the Sharavu Ganapati temple, inside the above edifice is a Kerala-style wood-based temple.

- Very beautiful, clean and elegant

- The main shrine has multiple deities stacked up in layers like "golu". 

- The main deity is of course, Devi as Mahamaya.

- In addition, there is Chandramouleeshvara in the main shrine at the bottom, Devi just over that and at the top, Vishnu as Venkataramanaa.

- Had a talk with the priest. As per him, the main Mahamaya deity was originally in Goa. Due to troubled times 500 years ago, the "mukha of the original Devi deity" was brought here. The original devi idol, previously in Goa, is not here. He said, "bhinnam aaithu".  As part of the same move, the other idols also came from Goa. Hence, multiple idols are in the same sanctum.

- It is called "Kudtheri" because the original place of Devi was "Kudtari" in Goa. The name was taken from there.

(3) Venkataramanaa temple

- This temple is next to the mahamaya temple

- Since today is Dvaadashi, we witnessed the utsava murty brought in, on a palanquin.

- This temple and the previous Mahamaya temple are as though the "two eyes of the GSB community" (the reader can look up more information on them). The idols from Goa were apparently brought by them. 

- The migration of the GSB community from the banks of the Saraswati river to Gowda desha and from there, to Goa, and from Goa to further south (along the coast), is a huge topic.

- Again, Kerala style architecture.

- Hanuman is to the left of the main shrine, Garuda to the right and at the back, we have Ganesha. 


(4) Mangaladevi temple


- This is the main temple in Mangalore

- The pic above does no justice! It was taken to show 2 stories (seen in the paintings at the top).

- The first story related to Parashurama and this shrine and the second story is related to King Kundavarman and this temple

- It is clear that Parashurama (so prominently associated with Kerala), is also connected to Mangalore.

- When it comes to Kundavarman, we can conjecture that places like Kundapur (on the coast and not too far from Mangalore), are associated with him.

- Devi's image is very clear- with abhaya and varada mudra

- Note: The main temple is "inside" what you see in the picture. It is very impressive, once you step inside, but you cannot take photographs.

(5) Gokarnatheshvara temple


- Need to read more on the origins of this temple. It appeared more recent, but we stepped in, since it was on the way.

- Annapoorneshwari, in particular is very beautiful, radiant, and decked colorfully. We spent time at this shrine and waited for an elaborate deepaaraadhana.

- Subramanya (with 6 faces) is also a prominent shrine inside the main premises. We spent time here too.

Day 1- Evening session:

(6) Amrteshvara temple

- Not to be missed at all!

- The location creates the magic- far far far...from the madding crowd.

- All around the temple, just fields and mountains in the distance.

- Inside the temple, no one!

- The temple is spotlessly clean and serene. Lord Amrteshvara is truly manifest here.

- The temple priest was vocal and narrated the story behind the temple. As per this story, there was a king. His relative tried to kill him by poisoning the temple prasada. The priest was about to give the prasada to the king, though he knew the background. He confided in the king, but by then, the king had already extended his hand to receive the prasada. The king had such faith that he said- he will not retract his hand. He was sure the prasada would not hurt him. The poisoned teertham got converted to amrta. Hence, Amrteshvara at this temple!




(7) Anantapadmanabha swamy temple

- On the way to Amrteshwara temple

- You descend a flight of steps to reach the temple premise. The steps are steep.

- Anantapadmanabha idol is very dimly lit. It is difficult to discern the features.

- This temple is known for "sarpa dosha parihara" rituals. There are snake icons all over the place, plus a conglomeration of snake-idols of all shapes and sizes, at a particular point just beyond the main temple premise. Even as we went around the temple, mass/group rituals were in progress.

- The snake is connected to Subramanya.

- Hence, this temple is known for both Vishnu and Subramanya.

- The temple pond and vegetation all around, make this temple also very scenic.




Day 0: (December 23, 2023) Getting to Mangalore from Bangalore:

- The route we took: Hassan->Sakleshpur->(Shiraadi Ghat)-> Gundya....to Mangalore

- We started at 9 am and reached at 7:15 pm with a break for about an hour for lunch/tea.

- It took so long because of the holiday season- It took more than an hour to get out of Bangalore via Nice Road.

- Shiraadi ghat road has too much road construction. It is a mess. If there are alternate routes via Charmadi ghat, it is worthwhile to try out those options.

-  The landscape is beautiful for most parts- after Sakleshpur, a mountain stream flowing alongside, is picturesque.

- The hills are green and the layer upon layer of hills, makes for stunning scenery.

- Lots of monkeys by the roadside just after Sakleshpur (where the ghat section begins).

- Not too many twists and turns in the ghat section to make your stomach churn. It is bearable from that angle, but the construction, which is happening over the entire stretch (after Sakleshpur), takes the sheen out of the travel.

- At Gundya, we go straight to Mangalore. If you turn left, you reach Kukke Subramanya.

- Just after Gundya, we again go straight to Mangalore, at the second fork. If you turn to the right at this fork, you reach Dharmasthala and if you turn left, you reach Kukke Subramanya (second route to Kukke).

- So, Dharmasthala and Kukke can be covered on the same day, though they are on either side of the road going to Mangalore.




2 comments:

  1. Short and sweet compilation. Plenty of temples with different stories. Raghu shyam can visit . I will send it to them. Did your parents come with you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks chitappa! We just completed our pilgrimage! This trip was done with friends. It was a long pending trip to some of these temples...and when the opportunity came by, we latched onto it.

      Delete