Temple tour- Suryanaar, Kanjanur, Tiruvidaimarudur, Oppliappan

 Suryanaar temple:

We started at 6:15 am from Kumbhakonam. By 7 am, we were at the Suryanaar temple. It is one of the nava-graha kshetras. These days, this nava-graha kshetra tour has become so popular, every hotel room carries a map of this temple-circuit. 

Essentially, all these temples are Shiva temples, with Shiva as the main deity. The "graha" deity is also a prominent deity in each temple. However, the Suryanaar temple is different. Here, Suryanaar is the main deity- there is no shiva-linga in the sanctum as in other nava-graha temples.

Apparently, apart from Konark, this is unique- to have a temple dedicated to Lord Surya alone.

In the sanctum, Lord Surya is flanked by Usha-devi on one side and Chhaaya devi on the other. The graha "guru" faces the sanctum (as Nandi would in a Shiva temple).

In this temple, there are also separate sanctums for each graha- chandra, angaraka, budha,  shukra, shani, rahu and ketu. This is unlike the usual navagraha arrangement we find in Shiva temples. 

Archana was quickly done in each shrine- since these are clustered, few feet away from each other, the entire process takes little time.

Since last night was maha shivaratri, the priest expressed his displeasure that they have lit oil-lamps all over the place, so much so, he cannot even enter the shrine this morning!

Muthuswamy has composed a kriti in praise of Lord Surya at this temple in the raga Saurashtram.

https://guru-guha.blogspot.com/2008/10/dikshitar-kriti-soorya-moorte-raga.html

 

Suryanaar temple vimaanam: Lord Surya flanked by Usha and Chhaayaa devi

Kanjanur:

Suryanaar temple to Kanjanur is a very short distance. The temple is ancient- just the look and feel of the structure tells us.

Here, Lord Shiva is called "agneeshvara". As we face the shiva sanctum, to our left is the sanctum for "shukra" (labeled as "Lord Venus" atop the shrine itself!)

Devi's shrine has a special feature- we see Ganesha and Kartikeya just outside Devi's sanctum (not in separate shrines, but as though they are dwaarapaalakas), waiting on either side, for Mother to step out!

Archana for Shukra deity is quick. From the stotra namavali recited by the priest, it is clear that most names are Shiva's- as though Shiva is worshipped as Lord Shukra (along with his consort) in this shrine. 

 Tiruvidaimarudur:

Also known as "Madhyaarjunam", Tiruvidaimaurudur is an ancient and important Shiva temple. We passed by this temple, on the way to Oppiliappan temple and took a spot decision to visit the temple. 

We passed by the massive Nandi, similar to the Nandi at Brhadeeshwara temple. Nandi faces the main sanctum, flanked by pillars all the way.

The main deity is "maha linga swamy".  On the way to the main deity, we pass by "Chola brahmahatti" to the left. This creature is crouched to the top left (as we walk towards the main shrine). As per legend, he is waiting for the Chola king to gobble him up, the moment the king comes back from the sanctum. But the king exits from the side gate. Since then, this creature is waiting (for a 1000 years!)- for anyone who retraces his path from the sanctum! Thus, in this temple, thou shalt not exit by retracing your path from the main shrine. You have to turn off mid-way, else, "chola brahmahatti will catch you!"

As you go around the main shrine, among other attractions, is Ravana carrying Kailasa, with Shiva and Parvati on the mountain-top. You can see Ravana with 9 heads- the 10th as a veena-head and with 19 arms- the 20th arm forms the body of the veena.

As you circumabulate the prakaara, just behind the Ravana-Kailasa shrine, is a little aperture. You hold your ear, and you can hear sama-gana as played by Ravana to appease Lord Shiva!

The goddess at this temple is "brhat-sundara-kuchaambika". Outside the main temple premises is a painting with "madhyaarjunam temple" at the centre and all other temples in the neighborhood as "satellite temples" for this main temple!

Madhyaarjunam (Tiruvidaimarudur) temple

Muthuswamy Dikshitar has composed a krti in praise of the lord at this temple.

https://guru-guha.blogspot.com/2007/11/dikshitar-kriti-chinthayae-mahaalinga.html

Oppiliappan temple:

We ended the morning with a visit to the Oppliapppan temple. Here, Lord Vishnu is "op-illaadha-appan", "the one without a comparison". As Ajuna tells Krishna, "na tvat samah asti" (when there is no one equal to you), how can there be someone greater than you? "abhyadhikah kutah anyah?"

Oppliappan is such- the unparalleled one, the one without a comparison.

The deity is very impressive-in standing posture. As we face the deity, to our left, is bhumi-devi sitting on the ground, to our right is Markandeya rishi, also seated on the ground. 

Unlike other temples, there is no separate shrine for the goddess, since she is present in the main sanctum itself.

The prasada in the temple is unique- there is no salt in the preparation. We ate vadai-prasadam in the temple premises- it tasted just fine, even without salt. In some homes, if the dish lacks salt, it is customary to ask in Tamil, "In your home, it is Uppliappan, is it?" 

There are stories for this type of prasada- that "oppliappan" got corrupted to "upliappan" and "uppu" being "salt", it is as though, he is the lord who partakes no salt!

We are fine either way- "Oppliappan" or "Uppilippan".

Oppliappan temple gopuram

With this, we were done with the temples in the morning. It was 11 am by the time we returned to Kumbakonam. 

Late breakfast at Mangalambika hotel beside Kumbheshwara swamy temple at Kumbhakonam!

Location of  nava-graha and other temples