The elephant at Kumbheshvara temple

 

Elephants are some of the most lovable creatures. Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Kumbhakonam. The elephant at Kumbheshvara temple stole my heart! Unlike other temple elephants, this one was completely unchained. Imagine- an unchained, untethered elephant, standing on its own, in total freedom!

Elephants are like magnets. They arrest your attention, so much so, you can scarcely take your eyes away. This elephant stood on the pathway leading to the main shrine, on a little perch filled with fine sand. What was distinctive about this elephant was the brown hair on its head! A few long, auburn strands of hair hung from the sides of the head elegantly. In its youth, it must have had a full crop of auburn hair, the kind we find in the Jungle-Book cartoon character! Scanty, brown hair stuck out from the top of the head, like tiny bristles! The face was pocked with pink freckles, that gave the face a stately and mature disposition.

The visage, between the eyes, was painted with a white design. It was not overly large to disfigure the elephant’s face, but just enough to make it look totally adorable! Elephants’ eyes are tiny- but they are expressive. As it greeted each visitor, you could see the mouth crease into a gentle smile with a peculiar glint in the eyes! The ears flapped, the tail waved, and the trunk was ever animated!

Just beside the elephant, a mega dance program was in progress. Rows upon rows of chairs were filled with people. At the far end, was a stage, and troupes of classical dancers regaled the audience. Silhouette of the gopuram, lit with a row of lights was pasted against the night sky.  Music blared from the speakers- now playing “Bho shambho” and now playing Lalgudi Jayaraman’s musical composition. The elephant seemed to enjoy the music and was an equal participant in the dance. It crossed one front foot over the other, in a steady rhythm, doing its little jig, even as the program continued!

I picked my chair carefully, and sat as close to the elephant as possible, just behind its tail! A thought did cross my mind- what if the elephant turned around and made a sudden charge? That sea of humanity, yours truly included, and the dancers dressed in all their finery, will soon be running helter-skelter!

But I nipped such imaginative thoughts in the bud. After all, it was the perfect vantage point to observe the dance, the elephant and the steady trickle of visitors who were irresistibly drawn to it. The elephant followed the drill to the letter. It picked the rupee note from the visitor’s hand, deftly handed it over to the mahout who sat beside and placed the trunk on the visitor’s head in a mark of both affection and benediction.

If it was mother-child duo, it was extra careful and placed its trunk ever so gently on the child’s head.  There were bold children and there were children who panicked and froze, refusing to go any further. The elephant waited patiently, till the child lost all fright and gained an element of composure. All along, its movements were fluid and languid, as it visibly enjoyed the entire setting!

When it was dinner time, the mahout stepped away to bring sheafs of green grass from the other side. The elephant waited- with no chain, no mahout, and no restraint whatsoever.

It was 9 pm. The temple was to close for the night. The mahout made a little gesture. On its own, the elephant got down from the sand perch and walked towards the shrine. It swayed from side to side, its majestic gait, a sight for sore eyes! The elephant’s gigantic frame was now noticeable, as it passed the temple’s doorway, and towered over everything in its wake!

Once home, I learnt that the elephant’s name was “Mangalam”.  Apparently, Mangalam was the recipient of “The best-behaved elephant” award!  

What a bundle of joy!