Temple tour- Tirunallaar

Tirunallaar is in Puducherry, as opposed to the other nava-graha shrines, that are in Tamil Nadu. It is the sthala where Saturn, Shani bhagavan is propitiated. As we know, Tiru is an honorific, "nal" refers to King Nala and "aar" is the one who gave comfort (to King Nala). Thus, Tirunallaar refers to the place where King Nala got the solution to tide over his difficulties.

Nala's story is well known. Nala and Damayanti predate the incidents in the Mahabharata. Shaneeshvara, the Lord of Saturn torments Nala, so much so, Nala who was a king, loses everything including his wife Damayanti. When the Pandavas were in the forest, Yudhishthira questions why he is going through so much suffering in life. At that point, Yudhishthira hears the story of Nala chakravarti. Yudhishthira understands that his trouble is nothing compared to what Nala faced! Such was Nala's life.

Nala roams all over for comfort and finally reaches Tirunallaar, the site where Shaneeshvara has a special place. Unlike other places where Shani Bhagavan faces West, in this temple, he faces East. Propitiating Shani Bhagavan at this place, Nala's life takes a turn for the better.

As per the priest at the temple (with whom we had a lengthy conversation), all the other grahas are referred to, by their names alone- as "chandra", "angaraka" etc. Only when it comes to Shani, eeshvara (the Lord) is added to his name (especially at Tirunallaar), so that he becomes "shaneeshvara".

Like other navagraha kshetras (apart from Suryanaar), this is essentially a temple for Lord Shiva. Shiva is known here as "Darbhaaranyeshvara" (darbha-aaranya-eeshvara), the Lord of the forest filled with "darbha" grass. As per the priest, this is a swayambhu linga (not man-made/sculpted linga, but as appearing in nature). Tirunallaar was a forest filled with darbha, and hence this special name for Lord Shiva. The sthala vrksha in this temple is "darbha". As one goes around the praakaara, darbha is seen growing like wild grass, extending over 10 feet in height.

A special facet about Tirunallaar is that it is part of the "sapta vitanka sthalas" of Lord Shiva. At Tirunallaar, Shiva as "Tyagaraja" is present in the heart of Lord Vishnu. In keeping with this point, just before we enter the main temple complex, at the top of the entrance, is a sculpture of Lord Vishnu. He is reclining on Adi Shesha and from his heart, arises Shiva as "Tyagaraja". This point was specially narrated to us as we waited just outside the main temple complex.

Devi is known here as "Praaneshvari" (as pointed out by the priest at the temple). She is Praaneshvari because she is the life-breath, praana in every living being. He mentioned that the names of Devi in the Lalita Sahasranama "praaneshvari....praanadaatri....panchaashat-peetha-rupini" corresponds to Devi as present at Tirunallaar.

The shrine of Shaneeshvara also faces East (just like Shiva in the main sanctum). As in other Shiva temples, Devi's shrine is to our right (as we face Shiva), at right-angles to the main sanctum.

Just outside the main sanctum is Shaneeshvara's shrine- the idol is decked with kireetam and kavacha. Not much of a crowd since it is a Sunday morning.

Before entering the temple, it is customary to follow a particular regimen- you take a dip, or at least do a "prokshana-snaanam" at "Nala teertham". This pond is not co-located with the main temple area. It is across the road. After the dip, you proceed to the Ganesha shrine (to one corner of the pond). You light up a camphor placed atop a coconut, and after swivelling the coconut around yourself, you break the coconut at the Ganesha shrine. That done, you proceed to the main temple.

As per the priest, there are 2 sthalas where you need that "special calling" to visit- one is Tirupati and the other is Tirunallaar.

One last point about the pronunciation, though a very minor point. It is "TirunaLLaar", the L sound produced by striking the tongue against the roof of the mouth. That is, it is a "muurdhanyaa" letter. It is not the L sound produced by striking the tongue against the front teeth, i.e. it is not a "dantyaa" (light L) letter.

Nala Teertham

Entry to the temple-the gopuram is partially visible in this picture