Somewhere, midway between Bangalore and Mangalore is Sakaleshpura. Somewhere, midway between this work-a-day world and your make-believe, fairy-tale world is Sakaleshpura. It is your proverbial Malgudi. How else will you describe it? Where else will you find a saloon which says "Decent Gents Beauty Parlor!"? It's as if you can enter the saloon only after a careful character assessment! Or the other hoarding at the main market which warns- "Girls teasing on road?". Yes, it appears to be a town with a difference- where boys may actually be at the receiving end or so it seems....at least unintentionally! What is Malgudi's River Sarayu is the River Hemavati at Sakaleshpura. It curls its way just outside the town.
The "Bee Keeper's Co-operative Society" is an interesting place, just off Sakaleshpura's main-market. Apart from the bottles and bottles of honey which are stashed away behind its cupboards, it stays arrested in a time-bubble. The wall has a full roll-call of owners in an unbroken list dating back to 1940! A black-and-white photograph fills up one wall- with folks in elaborate coats and turbans. It was the day it celebrated its Silver Jubilee. It was in 1967! Printed portraits by CN Row- of Gandhi, Nehru, Tilak, Shastri and Indira Gandhi peer at you intensely from one end of the hall. The overhead ledge at the other end is cluttered with files- all frayed at the edges, yellowed with age, gathering dust and seemingly untouched....since 1940! And not to be missed is one curious black-n-white photograph- a man in black-boggles and a full beard. Except....the beard is made up of a swarm of bees, all pasted to his face!
Eventually, we did buy the honey and carried off an entire boxful of bottles, enough to last a whole year, or at least till we make it back to Sakaleshpura!
We leave Sakaleshpura town and hit the hills. In 10 km, we've left civilization behind...and land in nature's lap. From now on, it's all about coffee and enchanted woods! The hills are gentle and covered in a full coat of green. A dusty trail takes us through the coffee-plantations- demarcated neatly with the year the coffee-trees were planted, the number of trees and the variety. It's either the "Arabica" or "Robusta" family of coffee. Coffee beans hang off in clusters- bright-red, resembling the Christmas Hollies! From here, these beans get picked, washed, the seeds separated from the pulp, and then cured and dried. They go off to Chikmanglur, where they will be roasted and powdered. That's the amount of human ingenuity required to bring that cup of filter-coffee to our hands!
The trail takes us deeper into the woods- a bison-skull hangs off a tree-trunk, spider and snake burrows dot the sandy mounds on either side. As for the path, we look closely for any animal-footprints. We don't find any- but this is wild animal terrain all right. If you are a bird-lover, there is enough to keep you interested- woodpeckers, orioles and cranes. From time to time, grilled-gates break the monotony of the landscape. They are from an earlier age. These estates date back to 1865! Our trek takes us by a hill-stream, over a wooden-bridge, up a little water-fall and by a lake....covered in a coat of mist with a lonesome house in the distance!
The nights are really cold at this time of the year. But the sky is clear and studded with more stars than you can imagine. It's like a diamond merchant, who in a moment of recklessness, has taken diamonds by the fistful and scattered them with abandon on a black-velvet drapery! Such is the bounty of the night sky! Through a clearing, we spot a couple of hills....their tops on fire- these are forest-fires!
The moon is half, but its beams slice through the trees and light up the trail. The shadows of the tree-trunks and twisted branches pave the path with such clarity....even in the dead of the night....that we need no other light to find our way!
As the head hits the pillow, it is all quiet. So quiet that even a snore is amplified many times over and jolts us out of bed! There is the occasional click of the Cricket. And drum-beats in the distance. Many hills away, the animals are on the move due to the forest fire. The drum-beats keep them away from straying into human-territory. But then, where are these animals headed? Towards us?
There is a "scratch" on the outside walls....muted initially....and slowly picking up both volume and frequency. What is it? A cat, a wild-boar or a wild elephant? No one wants to venture out. Imagination runs riot. And now, sound of footsteps on the roof. Is it a rat...or a disembodied spirit may be? The brooding is broken with the sound of a hoot. It's a train.....down below in the valley, many miles away....snaking its way through these hills and bound for the sea! A faint rattle of the coaches...their trailing sounds swallowed by silence...and all is quiet once more.
Someday, I want to be on that train....pass through these hills and halt awhile at each of these fairy-tale towns! The poet Rumi wrote "Somewhere beyond right and wrong, there is a garden. I will meet you there!"
I will meet *you* in these woods!
The "Bee Keeper's Co-operative Society" is an interesting place, just off Sakaleshpura's main-market. Apart from the bottles and bottles of honey which are stashed away behind its cupboards, it stays arrested in a time-bubble. The wall has a full roll-call of owners in an unbroken list dating back to 1940! A black-and-white photograph fills up one wall- with folks in elaborate coats and turbans. It was the day it celebrated its Silver Jubilee. It was in 1967! Printed portraits by CN Row- of Gandhi, Nehru, Tilak, Shastri and Indira Gandhi peer at you intensely from one end of the hall. The overhead ledge at the other end is cluttered with files- all frayed at the edges, yellowed with age, gathering dust and seemingly untouched....since 1940! And not to be missed is one curious black-n-white photograph- a man in black-boggles and a full beard. Except....the beard is made up of a swarm of bees, all pasted to his face!
Eventually, we did buy the honey and carried off an entire boxful of bottles, enough to last a whole year, or at least till we make it back to Sakaleshpura!
We leave Sakaleshpura town and hit the hills. In 10 km, we've left civilization behind...and land in nature's lap. From now on, it's all about coffee and enchanted woods! The hills are gentle and covered in a full coat of green. A dusty trail takes us through the coffee-plantations- demarcated neatly with the year the coffee-trees were planted, the number of trees and the variety. It's either the "Arabica" or "Robusta" family of coffee. Coffee beans hang off in clusters- bright-red, resembling the Christmas Hollies! From here, these beans get picked, washed, the seeds separated from the pulp, and then cured and dried. They go off to Chikmanglur, where they will be roasted and powdered. That's the amount of human ingenuity required to bring that cup of filter-coffee to our hands!
The trail takes us deeper into the woods- a bison-skull hangs off a tree-trunk, spider and snake burrows dot the sandy mounds on either side. As for the path, we look closely for any animal-footprints. We don't find any- but this is wild animal terrain all right. If you are a bird-lover, there is enough to keep you interested- woodpeckers, orioles and cranes. From time to time, grilled-gates break the monotony of the landscape. They are from an earlier age. These estates date back to 1865! Our trek takes us by a hill-stream, over a wooden-bridge, up a little water-fall and by a lake....covered in a coat of mist with a lonesome house in the distance!
The nights are really cold at this time of the year. But the sky is clear and studded with more stars than you can imagine. It's like a diamond merchant, who in a moment of recklessness, has taken diamonds by the fistful and scattered them with abandon on a black-velvet drapery! Such is the bounty of the night sky! Through a clearing, we spot a couple of hills....their tops on fire- these are forest-fires!
The moon is half, but its beams slice through the trees and light up the trail. The shadows of the tree-trunks and twisted branches pave the path with such clarity....even in the dead of the night....that we need no other light to find our way!
As the head hits the pillow, it is all quiet. So quiet that even a snore is amplified many times over and jolts us out of bed! There is the occasional click of the Cricket. And drum-beats in the distance. Many hills away, the animals are on the move due to the forest fire. The drum-beats keep them away from straying into human-territory. But then, where are these animals headed? Towards us?
There is a "scratch" on the outside walls....muted initially....and slowly picking up both volume and frequency. What is it? A cat, a wild-boar or a wild elephant? No one wants to venture out. Imagination runs riot. And now, sound of footsteps on the roof. Is it a rat...or a disembodied spirit may be? The brooding is broken with the sound of a hoot. It's a train.....down below in the valley, many miles away....snaking its way through these hills and bound for the sea! A faint rattle of the coaches...their trailing sounds swallowed by silence...and all is quiet once more.
Someday, I want to be on that train....pass through these hills and halt awhile at each of these fairy-tale towns! The poet Rumi wrote "Somewhere beyond right and wrong, there is a garden. I will meet you there!"
I will meet *you* in these woods!
No comments:
Post a Comment