Mumbai’s iconic double-decker buses will soon be history. The last one is about to be phased out for good.
Every city has its unique character. When you think of erstwhile
Bombay, a dozen images flash instantly- the city that teaches you to dream big,
the city that never sleeps, Bollywood, packed suburban trains and last but not
the least, the red double-decker BEST bus.
The buses date back to the days of the Raj. It’s as if the
British wanted to recreate a slice of London in Bombay. The yesteryear bird’s eye-view
photograph of Flora Fountain, from one of the high-rises, with the double-decker buses crawling about like ants, is almost a replica of London’s Piccadilly
Circus. Years later, on a visit to London, the double-deckers didn’t appear overly
fancy. It was as if, you had already “been there and done that” in Bombay.
Double-decker buses are indelibly linked to childhood. For less
than 25 paise, still termed “chaar aana”, you could travel from Sion to King’s
Circle. A short walk took you to school. You retraced the same path in the evening.
Only certain buses were double-deckers. You looked for them, even if it meant more
wait time.
Bus number 9 was a top favorite. It started from Colaba, at
the Southern tip of the city and snaked its way to “Antop Hill”. The moment it
arrived, you immediately raced to the top tier. No self-respecting schoolboy sat
on the bottom tier. With enthusiasm overflowing in those adolescent legs, you
covered two steps at a time, through that tiny staircase, till you reached the
top floor. And once on the top floor, you made a dash to the two front seats.
Unlike the other seats that had windows to the sides, the
front seat was special. It had 2 windows, well, in front! It was like sitting on
top of a fort- a vantage point, that gave you a panoramic vision, stretched like
a cinemascope. “I am the monarch of all that I survey!” such was the feeling of
empowerment. You didn’t have to do anything to bide your time. You
simply observed- people and places, and kept yourself amused, till your destination.
The top floor did not permit standees. Perhaps, there was a
worry, that the bus would be top heavy and turn turtle! That made the rides on
the top deck, always a pleasant experience. For the bus conductors, it meant double-duty-
they had to come up the stairs repeatedly to issue tickets.
Rains and Bombay went hand in hand. Every monsoon, the same
areas got flooded. There was knee deep water, sometimes till the waist, with
the rain pelting away, as though, there is no tomorrow. The double-decker was
your resolute caretaker. You were certain, given its gigantic size, it could
plough through the swirling flood waters, with ease.
From time to time, someone visited Bombay. You showed them
around the city. The tourist spots were the usual tick-mark items- Gateway of
India and Malabar Hills, Juhu Beach and Elephanta Caves. But you took special pride
to show off one attraction that had "the Bombay stamp". It was a monument on the
move, that no other city had- the red color double-decker bus!
As I reflect, it all comes back to the mind’s eye- The Number
9, the top deck, sitting on those green color seats, enroute to the inter-school
match. A cricket kit by the side with
the handle of the bat jutting out. The destination- Azad Maidan. And the heart, beating with one singular dream- to be
the next Gavaskar!
Bombay is an acquired taste. It can be intimidating to the
newcomer- seemingly populated with more automatons than real people. “Aye dil hai mushkil, jeena yahaan, zara
hatke, zara bachke, yeh hai Bombay meri jaan!” But a few rides on the
red-bus and the city grows on you. Soon, it holds you in its warm embrace. The
lyrics change, just like the next stanza in the song- “Aye dil, hai aasaan
jeena yahaan, suno mister, suno bandhu, yeh hai bambai meri jaan!”
Bombay will never be the same again. “Double-decker, bus
number 9! You beauty! You will be missed!”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OShZhbjDA98
I was too small to remember much.. but still remember entering a double decker bus when I visited Bombay.. even though it is not going to be there any more in Bombay..let us hope they start double decker buses in Chennai or Bangalore so we can all travel in them.. thinking about it itself is so fascinating
ReplyDeleteYes Yogita, I recall the trip you made as a kid! And that incident when your hat flew off, and you were about to run onto the main road....and you were restrained in time!!!! Double-decker sleeper buses....I see them on the roads...they look classy!! So...in some way, they are still running....but not as intra-city transport.
DeleteI say, it is 8 Ltd and 6 Ltd from flora foundation to chembur ambedkar garden. I recently checked up. It is all still there. What a ride for one hour. I can get down at Crawford market and walk to YCE at carnac office. For some, it is a regular journey in my office. Then 90 Ltd. Solid bus. I can sit with a lady and hoped always to get a young one. Your time went as a kid. Mine , a ten ager with a haircut at oblrei Sherton.
ReplyDeleteI am kalyani chittappa
DeleteEvidently, you have had an interesting time in Bombay chitappa!! Yes, the bus numbers are still there! i recall 8 ltd to go to Chembur!!! Somehow, the mind retains all these unncessary details!!! Crawford market- We bought a "beard" there! It had a gum to go with it....and once you stuck it, you couldn't get it out! I think some bits of the beard from Crawford market are still sticking to my jaw!!!!
DeleteYes, we will surely miss this Historic Double Decker BEST Buses of Aamchi Mumbai, Shankar. Having lived for a year in the Mid-Nineties, I too enjoyed a fair number of rides on these Wonderful Machines & have great memories of the same
ReplyDeleteFortunately, having grown up in the City of Bhagyanagar, I too had the privilege of enjoying hundreds of Rides on our Famous Double Deckers No 7 & 8 that would pass via our Famous Abids , Koti & Nampally Railway Station Areas in the 1980s
Just as is the case in the Present Mumbai, the Double Decker buses were discontinued in our Twin Cities in the year 2003. We too witnessed an end of a Magnificent Era
However , we have been extremely lucky to have these Historic Double Decker Buses reinstated/reintroduced in our Twin Cities of Bhagyanagar & Secunderabad ( Cantonment) in the form of Electric Double Deckers, albeit in Very limited nos, just as recent as in September of this year
Me & my family members simply cannot wait to get on them & enjoy the ride, ASAP
Great to know that double-deckers were in oter cities also Sriram! Hoping that they can be re-introduced later in Mumbai too....like including Pujara back into the test team....after realizing his worth....during his absence!!!
DeleteGreat to know that double-deckers were in oter cities also Sriram! Hoping that they can be re-introduced later in Mumbai too....like including Pujara back into the test team....after realizing his worth....during his absence!!!
Delete